Some of it goes to hydrate the cement the rest gradually dries out and evaporates, if there is little ventilation in the room you will see the condensation on the windows and any cold surface.
PS I would have thought three buckets was rather a large amount.
Go to the home depot to grab one of those chiminea (sp?) or whatever they're called. They're terra-cota fire places that you can move around (when cold) and burn regular wood in. Be careful with them though…you should have a cover for it (so rain doesn't fill up the bottom with all of its ash), you should burn the right kind of wood (a Duraflame log will crack it because it burns too hot), and in general, just care for them properly. My buddies have them, and they're great. One did nothing special other than what was recommended and it's great. Another went ahead and burned all kinds of crap in it drunk and it cracked on him.
You could always just grab a bunch of bricks and dig a hole to make a fire pit.

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I'm putting a ventless gas fireplace in my house it comes with gas logs and a firebox with a fan. I need to build a fireplace/hearth around it preferably out of faux stone, but i dont know where to begin. i would like to find some plans or instructions online. please help!
Hang on a minute.
As a HVAC professional, I must ask you to please reconsider a vent less fireplace.
Every day in America 1 to 10 people are killed by accidental carbon monoxide poisoning.
A gas appliance is one of the biggest producers of carbon monoxide, thus this is the biggest offender.
When you burn a fossil fuel, you have a by product, and need to vent it outside.
Check with your local building department in your town, or county.
And be safe first.
what are good ideas for fireplace outback to sit around at night and parties i was thinking a custom one out of brick with a cement pad pourd in the ground 3×3 then 4 pillars out of brick 3' high then going into a small chiminey just my idea any ways to make better ?
I've been in the masonry buisiness for 21 years, and I've built many backyard BBQ's and Fireplaces.
The best way to start is have a plan, which it sounds like you do. Put it down on paper like a blueprint. Have atleast two different elevational views. Include footings below ground. The footing should be 12'' thick and 4 - 6'' wider than the structure on each side. In a warm weather climate you don't have to bury the footing deep, it can be just below the surface but low enough so you can plant landscape over the footing. In a colder area, you need to get below the frost line, which will be considerably deeper. If you do not do this your structure will not last more that a winter or two, maybe four. Check your local city standards on the internet for basic codes on retaining walls and such.
After the planning stage, dig your footings and put together a rebar grid to bury in the footing. Usually #4 rebar (Each number represents 1/8'' so #4 is half inch and #5 is 5/8'', etc, etc). Space the bars in a grid pattern 12'' in each direction horizontally, and stay 3'' away from either side or bottom of the footing. Use tie wire to keep them together. Next you need vertical rebar extending 20'' minumum above the footing into the masonary structure at each corner and every 2' in between, and atleast 6'' into the footing with a minumum 4'' hook at the end into the concrete. Cut lengths appropriate to acomodate the previous description (20'' + 6 + 4''). Assemble your steel grid prior to mixing and pouring the concrete.
Go to the local Lowe's or Home Depot and get enough bags of 2500 psi premix concrete to pour the footing and then get 4 extra bags for grouting. Read directions and mix in a rented concrete mixer. You must mechanically mix the concrete because you can't mix by hand fast enough to get the correct consistancy and air entrainment. Mix it wet enough to give yourself some time to get it into the hole.
The vertical bars that you placed out of the footing should protrude through the cells of the CMU (Plan this in the begining stages). CMU are typically 16'' long with 1 1/2'' walls so you want the rebar ceneted in each cell. Then as you build the walls fill these cells with mortar or concrete, and extend the rebar overlapping the previous piece as you go.
The most difficult part of this project is getting the brick, block and or stone level, plumb and square. It takes years of practice, so take your time, use a level and a tape measure.
If you take your time, do the research and plan correctly, this will be the accomplishment that you are dreaming of.
its for an outdoor fireplace? (las vegas, nv)
go to a local builders subdvision & see what they use…. company usually close, cheap, & you can up grade