http://www.stollfireplaceinc.com/door_design_options.asp
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http://www.hostmonster.com/track/hostmonsterwebhosting/
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In 1995 we had our first clay chiminea. It lasted about 1 summer and the bottome fell out. We went through about 3 of those until 1999 when we bought our first cast iron. The cast iron was heavy on the bottom but the neck was sheet steel and it rusted out. It is now behind the garage and just the body is left. In 2002 we got a cast aluminum chiminea and have been using it ever since. We paint it once a year to keep it looking new but otherwise its held up the best. Its going on its 7th season and my 9 year old will probably take it to college with him.

Your best investment is a efficient burning cast aluminum chiminea. You will find you will use it more then any fire pit and it will last for many years longer then anything else on the market.
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http://www.thebluerooster.com/catalog/faqs.php

Go with a thicker gage steel if you can. The thinnest part the grill and the ash screen is what Will give out first. If you live in the "city" make sure it is legal to operate (have a fire) within your municipal boundaries. There have been ordinances past banning them or restricting the type allowed in some areas. I would check to see if there are restrictions before you make the investment.
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I now have a big, cast iron cauldron-looking thing, sort of like an upside down, wide bell. The iron is about 1/2" thick. I expect it to outlast me. I found it at a garden center. If you buy one made of steel, make sure the steel is 12 gauge or thicker, even if it is stainless. The high heat from a fire eats steel, slowly but surely.
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When you burn PT anyone down wind inhaling the fumes are exposed to possible problems.
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Sounds like a cool idea! I bet it's possible, with some sort of hinged-metal door on both sides. You'd have to be able to close it up on the inside if you were using it outside, I think, due to winds and the strong possibilty of your living room catching on fire. Even with this door-type thing, it would make your LR drafty in the winter probably.

But just ask, because someone, somewhere can probably figure out a way to do this. If you hear "it can't be done" from two companies, I'd try again because they may just not know how, or may not want to undertake such a unique task. Good luck to you, though, I hope it can be done!
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Check out http://www.bolp.com/

They have both fireplaces and outdoor kitchens that are easy to assemble and look great. They are available throuh BBQ Galore and through contractors who can build them for you (John Deere Landscapes can recomend a good contractor)
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The most difficult part of this project is getting the brick, block and or stone level, plumb and square. It takes years of practice, so take your time, use a level and a tape measure.

If you take your time, do the research and plan correctly, this will be the accomplishment that you are dreaming of.
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Personal experience

Stacking bricks without mortar gives you the flexibility to reposition if need be. Ours survived Loma Prieta without a problem.
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All shapes and sizes
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In one way, what you're suggesting is like a propane grill with charcoal above, on a rack, to eventually effect cooking something, then the gas could either be shut off or the valve closed lowering the flame. There will be residue that probably will at some point, affect the effectiveness of the expulsion of gas from the Jets.

I've also never seen this; but a gas device with jets hardware mounted to the side of some stacked wood in a fireplace could ignite the wood, but not strictly have residue fall to the jets.

No real offense meant, but many who own Gas log fireplaces are as interested in the effect, the ambience, the romantic notion of a fire without the mess after. Certainly a wood burning, and gas burning fire also allow some levels of HEAT to warm a room/area, but not strictly efficiently. Aesthetics is a major notion of fireplaces too, as you pretty clearly state using the word "REALISTIC"

Steven Wolf
Just my two "sense"
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45 plus years as a contractor, grew up with a firplace in every room of the house, and have grilled and used gas fireplaces

see options here:
http://www.fmifireplace.com/prod_detail.cgi?prodnum=11053&which=1

http://www.heatnglo.com/products/fireplaces/woodFireplaceDetail.asp?f=MLEX36
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http://www.gelfireplaces.co.uk/wildwood_flame.html

or how about electric? I really like the effect of these much better and you don't have to buy the gel fuel!

http://www.electricfireplaces.com/Contemporary.htm
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i sell fireplaces http://www.american-fireplaces.com

I certainly wouldn't leave a big hole in the wall and put a screen over it. You will have to alter the existing fireplace so the opening is big enough to put a whole sealed unit into.

The easiest to install is a heat-n-glo twilight model. There is a fixed glass on both sides and the outside meets the same standards as a window.

see it here: http://www.heatnglo-lifestyle.com/products/fireplaces/twilight.asp

you can also put in your zip code to find a local dealer. if you don't have any luck or want to see more options contact me through my website http://www.american-fireplaces.com

good luck!
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it's what i do!

Mortar is sand, lime, and cement — if mixed correctly, it has structural strength comparable to the bricks and will also hold up to fire.

The glue probably would not do either (won't hold up structurally or against the fire). Masonry glue is mainly used to reattach a piece of brick or stone where structural integrity is not important. I don't think I'd ever want to try it around a fire, even when dry.

Post edit, after your clarification:

OK, so I still wouldn't use the glue due to the fire issue.

The structural strength >>> you would have to take into consideration the size of your fireplace, and how much storms could affect the top. With the glue, the stones would be pretty much supporting each other, so you wouldn't have to worry about compressive strength, just bond strength (slipping against each other), so things like size and foundation play a part. Also keep in mind that no glue will hold up to water forever, and the heat from the fireplace will accelerate the glue's deterioration.

Mortar has been in use for thousands of years — it WILL work fine. If you want to avoid the wide mortar joints, then use what is called 'Lime Putty' mortar — it's 25% lime and 75% sand (NO cement). I'd use a fine sand and natural hydraulic lime (aka NHL), but regular lime is OK too. NHL is just better. But lime putty mortar will give you narrower joints, so the appearance will be better for that type of brick — bricks will be closer together.

Additional note: I had a thought — you might want to check to see if the bricks you want to use will work alright for a fireplace. Typical fireplace bricks are normally made in a much hotter oven than other bricks — this gives them more durability. If your brick is made in a low temp oven, it might not last as long as you would want. I would look into this and possibly consider getting a better brick for the inside of the fireplace.
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master slate roofer, I work with historic masonry on occasion.

you can now buy a full fire place with surround all built in one unit. so no messing with fitting. all you need to do is secure to wall and plug in.

you can find them on ebay and at b&q. my cousin has one in her room and looks real nice and cosy when lit up.
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A fire PIT dug into the ground, a 3 sided stacking of regular cinder blocks, are two ways to begin.

With no real offense meant, I'm curious about the urgency.
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