Picture this big, spacious fireplace in your favorite lawn or garden spot with perhaps lawn chairs and picnic table nearby Jt would provide a lot of entertainment as well as good barbe­cue foods. It’s a very popular design that can be built at sur­prisingly little cost. And if you’d build it yourself, cost is still less. All needed materials are available from your local building supply dealer. See Page 58 for details on the OF-48-S Majestic Metal Unit. Caution: Block sizes vary in some localities be sure the blocks you get are the same as those listed here.

LIST OF MATERIALS

1     Model OF-48-S Majestic Unit
39   Blocks 8″ x 8″ x 16″   (Header

or Double Corner type)

 14  Blocks 6″ x 8″ x 16″

2     Blocks 4″ x 8   x 16″

13   Blocks 2″ x8″ x 16″ (Note: It will be necessary for 3 of these to be split to 2″ x 6″ x 16″)

 4   Chimney Blocks 8″ x 12″ (16″ x 21 ” overall size)

Blocks should be fire-resistant blocks. (Plus necessary sad, gravel and concrete for foundation and mortar. “Ready-Mixed” packages and ideal and usually sized for your requirements. Ask your material supply dealer.)

Select a suitable spot for the fire­place, giving thought to the notes on “Location” given on page 53. Mark off the desired size with stakes and string. The base should be at least 62″ x 38″, and should be larger if extension be­yond the block walls is desired. Follow the directions for a float­ing slab foundation as listed on page 56.

Designed to more than handle the fireplace needs, these Majestic Steel Dampers are en­gineered for utmost strength and durability, and at the same time provide exceptional features of construction and operation. The patented Majestic poker control will with­stand many years of heat and rust without ever becoming difficult to operate. The un­breakable steel valve plate fits snugly to the damper opening, closing the throat tightly when the fireplace is not in use.

CAST IRON DAMPERS

Majestic Cast Dampers offer all the out­standing features found in the steel damper, and are recommended where exceptional durability rather than cost is the major fac­tor. The valve on this damper is made of unbreakable steel, carefully fitted to the cast body for tight closure. Majestic’s easy-operating poker control is standard equip­ment on these dampers, but a rotary face control, not available on the steel damper, can also be provided.

Think of the pleasant hours of fun. relaxation and good eating an outdoor barbecue like this will bring you, your family, and your friends. Not to speak of the extra fun. if you build it your­self! And it costs you so little! Your local supply dealer can supply you all the necessary materials. For details on the OF-38 Majestic unit, see page 58. Caution: Block sizes vary in some localities be sure the blocks you get are the same sizes as those listed here.

Note:

Before construction, lay out the blocks loose for the first course. Assemble the metal unit and set it in place to determine the correct width of mortar joints to use to provide proper space for the unit.

Lay out the first course of blocks as shown in Fig. 2. Then start mortaring these blocks in place. It is probably best to start with the center blocks, which provide a solid floor for the metal unit and the ashpit area. Maximum width of this area should be held as close to 16 inches as possible, by keeping mortar joints thin. Be sure the first course of blocks is perfectly level.

Lay the second course of 6-inch center blocks, alternating the vertical joints as shown. Now finish the second course of 8-inch blocks on the chimney and sides of the fireplace, again being sure that all edges are plumb and level.

Lay the third course of blocks. Note that the one 6-inch block used in the third course is sot back into the chimney area about 2′/2 inches. This is done to make sure that its front surface is at least 26 inches back from the front edge of the fireplace, to provide sufficient depth for the metal unit.

Before laying the fourth course of blocks on the chimney and side walls, lay the last 6-inch block squarely on top of the third-course 6-inch block. This will bring the wall for the back of the metal unit even in height with the third-course of 8-inch blocks, and will provide a proper smoke inlet to the chimney when the chimney blocks are set on top of the fourth course of 8-inch blocks.

Lay the 17 x 21 inch chimney blocks in place with the front sides exactly flush, vertically, with the fronts of the two 6-inch blocks against which the metal unit  is set.

Now you are ready to install the metal fireplace unit, and set the cement caps in place. Be sure the caps are set in a good bed of mortar. Your fireplace is now completed, but do not fire the unit for at least two days after completion, giving the mortar and concrete sufficient time to set and harden.

Before construction, lay out the blocks loose for the first course. Assemble the metal unit and set it in place to determine the cor­rect width of mortar joints to use to provide proper space for the unit.

comfortable to use by building it high enough to afford  a   convenient  working   level.

The material you choose for building sets the style of your Outdoor Fireplace, whether dignified and formal or rustic and informal.

Areas in contact with heat and flames should be of fire resistant block or firebrick to avoid dam­age from sudden temperature changes.

Cop the tops of fireplace walls to provide work ing surface and to prevent water from seeping down through the masonry.

Pave the ground area around your fireplace with a durable material that will withstand weather and foot traffic.

Allow for expansion and contraction of metal parts under the effects of heat to avoid cracking or distorting  the  masonry  walls.

A spark arrester should be placed on the chim­ney a wire screen will do and a cap to keep water out of the flue.

Waterproof the entire exterior masonry of your fireplace, to improve its appearance and protect it from damaging dampness. See that ash pit area and entire slab has slight slope to front for drainage of moisture, or back with back drain in ashpit area.

When winter comes, warm the metal grill with a small fire, then rub with suet for a protective coat­ing of grease. Clean the ashpit thoroughly, and cover the chimney and cooking area to keep out snow and dirt.

Keep “pointing up” breaks in mortar joints to keep out moisture for longer life of unit.

Expansion space gap (opening between metal unit and masonry) can be closed for neater ap­pearance by angle irons, cut to fit by your dealer. This covers the gap but still allows space for ex­pansion  and  contraction.

l. THE HOLE. Get the foundation right and half your job is done. Mark off the desired area with stakes and string, allowing at least 1″ extension beyond desired foundation size. Dig out this area to a depth of 10″ to 12″.

2. THE FORM. Build a form of l” x 6″ or wider boards. Set it in the hole and nail to stakes at each corner. Be sure tops of alt boards are level and corners are square, and that the form rises 2″ to 4″ above the ground The slab may be slightly sloped for water drainage.

5. THE REINFORCING. After laying a few inches of concrete, place a strip of heavy wire fencing or other reinforcing material on this layer, then fill with concrete to the top of the form. Tie down reinforcing form with tie wires driven into the ground to prevent float­ing of reinforcement.

6. THE FINISHING. Level the concrete with a board long enough to rest on the sides of the form, sawing it back and forth. Do not remove the wooden form for at least a week, but your work can go on after a couple of days.

Until recent years, a major handicap in building an Outdoor Fireplace was the difficulty of locating essential metal parts, such as grilles, doors, grates, and the like. Now, metal fireplace units and a wide variety of parts are manufactured by The Majestic Company, Inc., of Huntington, Indiana. Your Lumber, Building Material, or Masonry Supply Dealer will be happy to assist you in your needs for Majestic Barbecue Equip­ment. Don’t take substitutes.

With these metal units, anyone can create an attractive fireplace by using a complete unit as a building form and setting up masonry around it. in any desired design.

First essential for a good fireplace is a strong, solid foundation. In warm climates, where frost is not a factor, your fireplace can be set on a firm bed of tamped ground, cinders, or gravel. In cold climates, where deep frost occurs, your Outdoor Fireplace should be built on either a floating slab of reinforced concrete, or on a solid foundation of concrete or of brick or stones set in mortar and extending 4" or 5" or more below the frost line. You can learn the details on building a floating slab on page 56 of this booklet. For a below-frost-line foundation, see a local authority such as your building supply dealer.

Be sure to provide proper allowances for the metal parts of your fire­place to expand and contract as the result of heating and cooling. When using a Majestic Fireplace unit, this can be done by placing sheets of corrugated paper between the sides of the unit and the masonry. When the first fire is built, this corrugated paper will burn away, leaving space for expansion.

A chimney is not always necessary. If you plan to burn only charcoal in the fireplace, the three masonry walls around the metal unit are all that is required. However, if either wood or coal is the fuel to be used, the fireplace should have a chimney. It is also wise to provide the chim­ney with a cap to keep out water and possibly a screen to check flying sparks from wood fires.

It is wise to provide a means of adjusting the depth of the firegrate beneath the grill, since a charcoal fire should be placed much closer to the grill than a wood fire. In the Majestic metal units, this adjustment for charcoal or wood is provided.

Using a charcoal grill indoors requires the installation of a spe­cially designed vent-hood. The Majestic Char-Grill vent-hood is ideal for venting a charcoal fire as well as for other types of kitchen ventilation. This highly efficient vent-hood removes excess fumes and heat from cooking and adds much to the pleasure of an indoor barbecue.

COMPLETELY  EQUIPPED

The hood is 32" high, 36" wide and 24" deep and is equipped with a powerful 400 CFM (cu. ft. per min.) centrifugal twin blower, two incandescent light sockets and separate electric switches. A featured convenience is a 14"x21" removable, wash­able, aluminum filter. Three vent-hood finishes are available: stainless steel—Black Wrinkle enamel and Antique Copper enamel. All are of heavy gauge steel, complete with flutter valve to prevent back draft and de­signed to take a standard 4x 12 to 8" round transition.

A VERSATILE VENTILATOR

Although the Majestic Char-Grill vent hood is designed pri­marily to be used with Majestic Char-Grill barbecue units, its size and capacity make it suit­able for installation and use with other cooking equipment.

STANDARD SIZE:

The Majestic Char-Grill vent-hood is made in the standard 36" width for easy installation with regulation kitchen cab­inets and other equipment. Soffits or cabinet fronts can be built around the top portion of the hood if desired.

Installation details for a typical cabinet installation are given here, since it would be impossible to give instructions covering all possible variations. The simplicity of the Char-Grill installation is such that, with a minimum of study and planning, the details given on these pages can easily be mod­ified to fit any individual problems or variations.

Majestic Char-Grills are interiorly insulated on all sides with heavy density asbestos millboard, with a reflective aluminum coating. However, for utmost safety, a wood cabinet installation kit should be used when the unit is installed in wood or composition cabinets.

The unit should not hang from the counter-top surface by means of the pro­jecting stainless steel lips, but should rest on the insulating shim which can be adjusted in depth so that the top fits snugly to the surrounding surface. It should not be fastened in place, since it has sufficient weight to maintain position, and is designed for easy removal for cleaning.

CAUTION: A properly filtered hood to vent smoke and fumes must be pro­vided for indoor installations. The unit should never be operated in a tightly closed room, since burning charcoal rapidly uses up available oxygen. If the room is to be closed off from the rest of the house, an exterior window or door should be opened to provide ventilation.

Easy to install in masonry, if desired

Should kitchen plans or your preference call for a masonry surround, the Char-Grill furnishes the perfect answer. No firebrick or fireclay liner is needed, since the unit is interiorly insulated on all sides with heavy density asbestos millboard, with a reflective aluminum coating. The projecting stainless steel top neatly covers the joint between masonry and unit. Any type of masonry, from common brick to the fanciest stone, may be used

If a grassy lawn, flower garden, or other open site is your choice, the Cook-Nook can be partially seclud­ed with skillful garden planting. The fireplace should face the pre­vailing wind, and only a low chim­ney tor no chimney at all) is needed.

Trees and heavy shrubbery that af­ford privacy, wind protection and shade are welcome features of an outdoor Cook-Nook. Here, a tall chimney that blends with the back­ground of lofty trees and carries the smoke  high  overhead  is desirable.

The wall of your house or garage, or a garden fence, may furnish real pri­vacy and good wind protection. As a rule, such locations call for a well-constructed chimney extending higher than the adjoining structure in order to avoid downdrafts.